Anchored at Suwarrow Atoll in the Northern Cook Islands.


Walking along the reef at Suwarrow.


One of the many odd coral formations on the reef at Suwarrow.


Suwarrow is a wildlife refuge and bird sanctuary.
Since hardly anyone, except for people on yachts, visit this place,
the birds are totally unafraid. These are nesting blue-footed boobies.


Another shot of a boobie. Unfortunately, shortly after we took this photo,
this boobie was attacked (and probably killed) by a frigate bird.


Gumbo at anchor at Suwarrow. Check out the water color!


This is Peter "Toto", one of the three residents of Suwarrow.


And this is Papa John, the 70 year-old caretaker of Suwarrow and grandfather of Peter.


Kurt, relaxing in Papa John's hammock.


A view of the reef, looking at the anchorage at Suwarrow.


This is Baker, Papa John's cousin and the third resident of the atoll.


About every 3 days, Papa John would throw a potluck at his house.
The yachties would bring side dishes and Papa John would provide
fresh tuna, coconut crab, poisson cru and music.


There is no electricity on the atoll so the potlucks were lit by kerosene lamps.


Papa John, showing us how to grate coconuts.


Kaptain Kurt, jamming with Papa John.


We took this shot from up the mast to show the water color. Unbelievable!


Papa John took us, and the crew from "Willy Flippit" to a motu for a picnic.


While walking to the picnic site, we witnessed a huge amount of bird activity.


Papa John, showing us a sooty tern chick.


And here we are hiking across the reef to Turtle Island
at the far Northwest corner of Suwarrow Atoll.


For the picnic, Papa John first searched through the woods for a bunch of coconut crabs.


A coconut crab.


After catching four large coconut crabs, Papa John wove a carrying basket
out of coconut palm fronds.


Then he built a fire out of dried coconut palm fronds,
put pieces of coral on top to heat up, and finally cooked the crab on top of the coral.


Then Papa John wove us plates out of coconut palm fronds!


After lunch, Papa John went out on the reef to try to find us some cowrie shells.


This photo shows the clarity of the water at Suwarrrow.